>>1In my limited experience,
REAL ENGINEERING PROJECTS aren't any better than
ENTERPRISE. In the end you're still pouring your energy into a tiny corner of some system that nobody appreciates except as a necessary part of a larger whole.
People who are in a position to effect changes to a whole system generally aren't programmers. Many technical leads were programmers once, but they've long since had any sense of joy squeezed out of them as a result of prolonged constant contact with marketing and management types.
Some say consulting or startup work are better, but you'd better be very, very good or the cost of the more interesting work will be your steady paycheck.